THE AW23 TREND REPORT
Finesse your looks and find your sartorial groove for the new season with the Browns guide to AW23’s biggest trends and hero pieces, from the sleek and pared-back to the high-octane and party ready.
LUXE LEATHER
Is there any trophy piece quite like one crafted from leather? We think not, especially when there are so many AW23 offerings to choose from. The iteration that you choose will be dictated by your personal style: are you most likely to wear Alaïa’s wrapped, cropped jacket with its ‘80s overtones, Bottega Veneta’s swinging tunic in oxblood red, LOEWE’s roomy, rebellious-spirited black coat or Prada’s wear-everywhere tailored jacket in oak brown suede? Outerwear is the most obvious go-to for such an investment fabric but don’t overlook the styling possibilities of leather separates most notably a glossy mini skirt worn with a matching jacket, a camisole or a skinny, long-sleeved top.
FEEL ME NOW
There’s nothing like a drop in temperature to give our favourite labels a renewed appreciation for warm and fuzzy textures. AW23 sees bags and shoes getting a playfully tactile makeover: cue clutches and clogs whipped up in shearling – we can’t get enough of Courrèges’ Tango orange clutch – denim and, at the more elegant end of the spectrum, mules and slingbacks from Burberry, KHAITE and Gucci in shaggy faux fur. Style day-to-night with pared-back separates and elevated basics: they’re just the thing to give your wardrobe and mood a lift through the darker months.
REBEL, REBEL
Taking a tough girl attitude and giving it a decidedly sexy, grown-up spin, this season designers have channelled punk and grunge-inspired signatures into coolly modern shapes. Daringly sheer and tactile fabrics – we can’t get enough of Gucci’s fluffy cropped sweater and velvet trousers ensemble – are set against swathes of denim, whether it’s slashed, patchworked and bleached out as at the likes of GANNI, Y/Project and Marine Serre or, in the case of Nensi Dojaka, crafted into a DIY-ish jeans, the legs replaced with lace and tulle. And, if in doubt, take your cue from the runway and add a statement-making pair of shades to round out your look, no matter what the weather.
BALLET BEAUTIFUL
If you thought the magnetic appeal of the ballet shoe would disappear along with the summer sun then you were very much mistaken. The ultra-feminine shape, beloved of ballerinas and fashion editors alike, is set to be the most-wanted shoe of AW23, albeit with some slight adjustments in line with the change in weather. Alaïa and GANNI have beefed theirs up with buckles and studs, giving them a punkish feel that’s a natural fit for winter’s knitted layers and heavyweight fabrics, while Prada’s slingback pair, with its floral embellishment, is shaping up to be the perfect party shoe. The likes of Miu Miu’s more literal approach or Jacquemus’ square-toed take, meanwhile, can be worn with 10 denier tights or grey socks to give them a cosy spin day-to-day.
MODERN MINIMALISM
Simplicity is always effective which is why some of the season’s most pared-back pieces are also its most desirable. The quiet luxury of LOEWE’s oversized school-grey knitwear, Alaïa’s rich brown blanket coat and matching jumper dress or the flawless cut of Bottega Veneta’s black tailored dress will make getting dressed on even the gloomiest winter mornings worthwhile. Stick to a muted colour-palette and luxe fabrics to attain peak levels of stealth sophistication and look for timeless pieces with a sleek silhouette, ideally with the subtle, unexpected design details that make them anything but basic, that you can mix and match to your heart’s content this season and beyond.
THE FINISHING TOUCH
Whether you want to add glitz to your everyday looks or the perfect finishing touch to your after-dark and party ensembles, this season has you covered with statement jewels. Satisfy your inner magpie with So-Le’s crystal-encrusted or Sterling King’s technicolour earrings – they’ll shimmer and shine on the dancefloor but also off-set the innate cosiness of your chunky knits and heavy overcoat. Contemporary peals courtesy of Completedworks and Vivienne Westwood will bring a modern femininity to anything you pair them with and don’t underestimate the power of a pop of colour, a sure-fire way to add interest and joy to your most muted and minimalist looks.
THE GREAT COVER-UP
On both a practical and sartorial front, getting your winter coat right is crucial to nailing your cold-weather wardrobe. For AW23, that means finding the perfect maxi coat as designers championed shapes spanning the calf-grazing to the literally floor-sweeping (see Stella McCartney’s outsized checked offering), making them both an incredible stand-alone piece and just the thing to layer over everything from off-duty denim to your most high-octane eveningwear. The strongest, from the likes of Givenchy, Y/Project and KHAITE, took their cue from menswear signatures with powerful shoulders and double-breasted shapes but whether you want to cocoon yourself in (snow) white, shearling, faux fur or courtesy of Dries Van Noten, canvas embellished with flashes of gold, there’s a coat out there for you.
THE THIGH’S THE LIMIT
A wardrobe staple that we’ll never tire of, the knee boot is set to be the hardest working accessory in your new season wardrobe. You can play fast and loose with the actual length – a pair that hit an inch or two below your knee will arguably be the most versatile but we’ll find it hard to resist KHAITE’s mock-croc pair, coming in just above the knee, or Coperni’s thigh-high pair, especially as these come with zips at the ankle and knee that make them adjustable. Wear them with skirts, whether a low-key denim mini, a timeless kilt or a tailored suit, to show them off to best effect, overlapping your hem with the top of your boots if you want to eliminate the need for tights.
PRECIOUS METALS
From high shine to subtle sheen, molten shades of bronze, silver and gold brought some much-needed glamour to this season’s runways. As you might expect, there were party-ready dresses galore, from Blumarine’s slinky draped mini to daringly sheer knits from the likes of BODE, ISABEL MARANT and FEBEN, but statement-making separates also glittered with metallic hues. JW Anderson’s oversized silver biker jacket was styled with grey sweats on the runway proving that it can elevate any piece of clothing you throw at it, while Dries Van Noten’s gold leather blazer with its navy pinstripe details is the ultimate tailored trophy piece that you’ll want to wear forever.
Words: Emma Sells
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