The Studio Visit: Supriya Lele
If you haven’t seen this young British-Asian designer’s name splashed across your Instagram feed, then you’re following the wrong people.
Inspired by the duality of her roots – her parents moved from India to the UK before she was born and although she spent a part of her childhood in India, she actually grew up (as a punk goth!) in the West Midlands – Supriya’s label has been making waves through the industry thanks to her knack for conjuring beautiful, directional pieces that blur the lines between the two cultures. Think '90s minimalism, sheer fabrics, low-slung trousers, sari-esque draping and neon iterations of the traditional Madras check. Interested? We thought so!
We're going behind the seams with one of Fashion East’s most exciting alumni…
On why she’s a designer…
I always wanted to do something creative and I ended up kind of falling into fashion. I started as an architect, I studied for 6 months and then I changed and I wanted to be a sculptor or a fashion designer, I couldn’t decide so I ended up going with fashion. I was always into fashion when I was a little kid, I used to make dresses for my dolls.
On creativity…
I don’t think you have to be doing something creatively in your career to be really creative, it can be across science, medicine... It comes from quite a personal place for me. I always want to keep going and make interesting things. I think even when I’ve taken a break I’ve still been researching. It’s something I’m always drawn back to.
You can be creative and experimental but still create something people will actually wear. It says a lot about social status and what’s going on in the world at the moment and I think those reflections are really interesting. Right now, with the things that are going on politically it’s important to be creative as it allows people to feel some sort of escapism and optimism. It’s fun and it can bring a lighter mood.
On the most exciting thing about the fashion industry today…
I think that specifically in London there’s lots of diverse talent and young talent coming out which is really supported. It’s really exciting that people from all backgrounds and ages can take part in platforms that celebrate that.
On how her background has influenced who she is today…
I had a super relaxed upbringing. My parents were always really supportive of me exploring my creative hobbies and took that quite seriously. Having that support from a really early age and being able to experiment with how I dressed and what I was interested in.
On who she most admires…
My mum. She’s super clever and has done really well with her career but she’s also my best friend and an amazing chef!
On her designs…
My work looks at my heritage and re-contextualising parts of Indian design aesthetics in a contemporary way. Modern and subversive but still very feminine, and quite clean.
On her favourite place in the world…
I love going back to India because as a kid I didn’t really understand my connection with it. But as an adult, when I’ve been going back, I feel really connected to it.
On how she wastes her time, when her schedule is clear…
I love seeing my friends, socialising, drinking lots of wine and eating good food. But I also love going to galleries and gigs – I really love going to the Tate Modern.
On working with Fashion East…
When I started working with Fashion East I’d just finished my MA and applied to their womenswear. I met with the team and interviewed and showed my first presentation with them in AW17 and then did two other runway shows. They’re so supportive and look after you but let you find your own way at the same time… They put the show on for you and do some much work behind the scenes for you to get you to London Fashion Week - the amount of times I’ve called them up crying about something, or needed to talk to Lulu [Kennedy]! They’re always there to help you out. To go from a student to putting on your first show at fashion week feels so scary, so they’re there to support you, like a family. I miss them a lot.
Photographer: Jonathan Middleton
Lookbook Photography by Sang Woo Kim
Stylist: Sally Bottomley