The A-Z Of Men’s Fashion Week A/W20
A is for…
Another fashion week? Yes folks, it’s that time again - but luckily we’ve made it easy for you to digest with our alphabetical guide to what went down on the runways of Men’s Fashion Week AW20.
B is for…
Beloved Judy Blame, the iconic stylist who Kim Jones paid homage to in Dior’s deliciously decadent AW20 show, replete with Blame’s signature Buffalo-style berets, designed by the late stylist’s friend Stephen Jones.
C is for…
Colourful! Defying the moody palette typical of a winter wardrobe, Ahluwalia Studio, Bethany Williams and Comme Des Garçons added bold splashes of colour to a sea of otherwise muted Autumn/ Winter collections.
D is for…
Dance your way through fashion week, taking cues from the opening act of Virgil Abloh’s latest Off-White collection. Wearing a T-shirt emblazoned with the words “I support young black businesses”, tap dancer Cartier Williams treated guests to a spellbinding performance before the models began to emerge.
E is for…
Ermenegildo Zegna’s snap happy models, who walked the runway holding Leica cameras and accompanying custom-made holsters. Looks like all of us iPhone photographers need to step it up a notch next season.
F is for…
Fake Moss, with a lookalike Kate Moss gracing the runway at Vetements’ show (alongside equally uncanny versions of Naomi Campbell and Snoop Dogg).
G is for…
Giddy up Givenchy! Whilst Claire Waight Keller’s offering took inspiration from the Maharaja of Indore, the collection was unmistakably infused with Wild West details, from wide brimmed Stetson style hats to square-toed cowboy boots, proving that next season’s Givenchy man is ready to ride off into a very fashionable sunset.
H is for…
Hadid, with Gigi and Bella joining the likes of Laetitia Casta, Joan Smalls, Adut Akech, Doutzen Kroes and Mica Arganaraz on the co-ed Jacquemus runway for an all-star line up of supermodels old and new.
I is for…
I Do - taking an Iranian wedding as her theme this season, Paria Farzaneh’s London show was once again a favourite of the Browns buyers.
J is for…
Jil, Jil and more Jil. With creative couple Luke and Lucie Meier at the brand’s helm since 2017, Jil Sander continues to deliver its unparalleled vision of luxurious minimalism for the modern man. This season showcased the crème de la crème of coats, not least due to the creamy colour palette which carried throughout the collection. Also on our Wishlist - those super soft oversized tabards, perfect for draping over a simple shirt and trouser for an unusual but understated twist.
K is for…
Knitted by nana. Speaking of knitwear, we spotted the chunkiest of the lot at Fendi, where oversized scarves and knitted bags appeared to have been lifted straight from grandma’s needles and sent down the runway.
L is for…
Local pride, with our homegrown favourites Martine Rose, Wales Bonner and Nicholas Daley presenting collections that celebrated their love of all things London. At Martine Rose, this meant hosting her show at her daughter’s primary school, whereas Wales Bonner focused on 70s London and Lovers Rock. For Daley, it was the custom jacquard (sourced from an English mill) and patterns drawn from the Scottish tartan maker Loch Carron that served to represent his collection’s British roots.
M is for…
Music! With so much in the way of visual stimulation, it’s easy to forget that an integral part of the runway experience is the music. Adding a little atmosphere to proceedings (alongside some new songs for our Spotify accounts) were Honey Dijon on the decks at Dior, a soaring Wagner soundtrack at Prada, a brand new Jamie XX track Dancewme at Wales Bonner and a hypnotic live performance from the one and only FKA twigs at Valentino.
N is for…
Need. Those chunky chain link details at JW Anderson, seen on necklines, shoes and as belts on a series of flowing outerwear pieces. J’adore.
O is for…
Optimism, courtesy of Milan’s first lady of fashion, Miuccia Prada, whose latest menswear collection was a celebration of the 9 to 5. Discussing the collection with Vogue after the show, the designer stated that: “The only thing that makes me calm and optimistic is to give value to work.” When the Prada man’s working wardrobe turns out looking like this, we’re inclined to feel the same.
P is for…
Put your chunkiest foot forward courtesy of next season’s footwear trends, which proved anything but dainty. Stomp into next season with thick-soles from Prada, Rick Owens’ trademark industrial platforms, Jil Sander’s heavy tread mountain boots and monk strap styles, Givenchy’s aforementioned cowboy boots and Alexander McQueen’s metal-toed numbers.
Q is for…
Quirky and delicious, two words one might use to describe Thom Browne’s latest menswear collection. Instead of holding a show, Browne presented a photo series, in which the tailoring came in the form of a giant cake being devoured by a dinner table of guests wearing animal head masks.
R is for…
Reflection, rejection and reminiscence, concepts that were on Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele’s mind when designing the Gucci A/W 20 collection. Over his past five years at the house, Michele has been credited with shifting the conversation around masculinity and fashion. In his first solo menswear show since 2016, Michele returned to those first signatures (the exuberant styling, the fluffy backless loafers, the brocade fabrications and the distinctly retro feel), presenting a fanciful collection which rejected the strictures of toxic masculinity.
S is for…
Style with a side of sustainability, with London favourites Paria Farzaneh, Bethany Williams and Ahluwalia Studio continuing to push fashion forward with must-have menswear executed with conscious production in mind. Over in Paris, Jacquemus stripped back his collection, using simple linen and cheesecloth devoid of embellishment to reflect a turn towards simple minimalism and a reaction against excess. Over at Vetements, the label took things one step further, doing away with a glam squad and sending models down the runway with no hair or make up to reduce waste backstage.
T is for…
Tiaras, or the high fashion versions thereof. Closing out Paris with a touch of sparkle on a Sunday night, Alyx’s Matthew Williams adorned models such as Kaia Gerber with crystal-encrusted headpieces to match the crystal-embellished clothes. Accessories to put a twinkle in one’s eye at the end of a long week of shows.
U is for…
Upping sticks, which is what London designer Craig Green did this season, choosing to show in Paris rather than London. Treating his audience to a collection that transformed the notion of emotional baggage into clothing, Green’s approach was as conceptual and artful as we’ve come to expect. Emotional baggage: no, Craig Green baggage: yes.
V is for…
...Virgil’s world (we just live in it). After following doctor’s orders and taking time out from the last season, Abloh was back in force at men’s fashion week, showing collections for both Louis Vuitton and his own line, Off-White. At Louis Vuitton, Abloh lived by his statement that streetwear is on its way out, presenting a collection with nary a sneaker in sight. For Off-White, the designer showed tailoring shot through with his signature holes, with suits and sneakers combinations signalling a metamorphosis of previous seasons’ urban uniform.
W is for…
Waiting, waiting and more waiting - because when it comes to starting on time, fashion shows adhere to their reputation for being, well, fashionably late.
X is for…
Xtra luxe, the vibe at Casablanca’s Paris show. Held in the opulent surrounds of the InterContinental Paris Le Grand Hotel, designer Charaf Tajer delivered a collection replete with his usual hand painted silks and leisurely luxe details (our favourite - the print of a man walking his pet dalmatian).
Y is for…
Yellow - the colour du jour at Raf Simons. With a collection that bore many of Simons’ hallmarks, each look came bathed in an otherworldly ochre glow courtesy of the eerie yellow light emanating from a large sun at the end of the runway.
Z is for…
Ziggy Stardust. With Raf closing his show with an instrumental rendition of David Bowie’s “Life On Mars”, the singer’s iconic alter-ego was also revived at Rick Owens’ performance-themed show, where the designer turned to Bowie for some sharp shouldered styling tips.
That's all fellas! Now you know what's coming, mastering next season's wardrobe will be as easy as A,B,C...
Words by Georgia Graham
Graphics by Axel Swan
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