History In The Making
Introducing the next generation of fine jewellers fusing concept and craftsmanship to shape new stories for their wearers. Like an heirloom, what have they received from former generations and what will their work pass on to the next? We talk to them about where their work comes from and what it means for the future.
Born in Jamaica, Mateo designer Matthew Harris honed his eye for exquisite jewellery in New York’s jewellery district, developing his line of delicately crafted and utterly luxurious pieces that speak of a history of craftsmanship imbued with the spirit of one of the world’s most exciting and fast-paced cities.
How would you describe your work?
My work can simply be described as great personal jewellery, with an aesthetic of simplicity and minimalism, often inspired by contemporary art.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
To me it means something precious and of personal value passed down for generations. They don’t have to be expensive, but they hold deep emotional ties.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
Beyond design, I believe craftsmanship plays the most integral role in creating an heirloom. The piece has to stand the test of time.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
Each significant moment in my life I would treat myself to a piece as a keepsake to always remember. I am the son of a seamstress, so I grew up in Jamaica watching my Mom create beautiful clothes for her clients. A lot of that passion and creativity has inspired my work today.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
The value I would hope to pass to future generations is that if you have a burning desire, you can make it a physical reality.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
What makes something precious for me is the authentic emotional connection to an object, place or a person. The fear of losing it makes it sacred.
Linking the past and the present, EÈRA’s distinctive snap hook designs allow the wearer a personalised experience of luxury, with the ability to customize pieces in a way which is colourful, playful and precious.
How would you describe your work?
EÈRA’s fine jewellery has a unique, utilitarian aesthetic that draws from both traditional and contemporary design. Our line includes many geometric shapes that combine precious materials and unique colour combinations.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
To us, an heirloom is something precious that is treasured and that can be passed down through the generations.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
Craftsmanship plays an important role in our process. All the pieces are made in Italy and assembled by hand. Italy has some of the best jewellery makers and is known for its craftsmanship, which is ideal for us because we can produce our collections really close by and visit our factories often.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
The past is a huge source of inspiration to us, whether that is past experiences, artwork or fashion collections from years back. For that reason our designs always contain a piece of history.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
To be curious and work hard. Take the time to observe and appreciate everything that’s happening around you and learn from the opportunities you’re given, because every experience has value.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
A uniquely designed piece of jewellery that is crafted to remain a favourite for years has great sentimental and emotional value, making it precious.
A fifth generation diamantaire, Jade Trau established her own label five years ago, using vintage inspirations to tell stories that unite generations of jewellery wearers, both old and new.
How would you describe your work?
I would say it’s a contemporary take on diamond classics and the building blocks of a jewellery wardrobe. I strive to hit both feminine and edgy notes in my pieces, oftentimes with a deferential nod to vintage.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
Something seeped in meaning and stories, that has lived many lives or is at the beginning of its long journey. It doesn’t need to be of great monetary value, but I do think it has to have enough that it’s treated with reverence.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
We try to pay attention to all pillars of how our pieces are crafted, from the diamond cutting to the way it lays on the skin to the comfortability of how it feels on the wearer.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
I think the question takes me in two directions. Many of my pieces are directly inspired by the Victorian era, from the silhouettes themselves but also the idea that jewellery began to really be steeped in sentiment at that time, coded with hidden messages and such. On the other side is my personal family legacy. My family has been cutting diamonds for five generations and the rich history behind that is seen in all of my pieces through my diamond selections.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
I feel like we live in a society today that doesn’t value elderly people. Nothing has taught me more in life than learning from the experiences of the generations before me. I spent more than 10 years of my career sharing a desk with my grandfather and it prepared me.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
Something precious is anything with personal value and significance.
From a young age, Jessica Warch was fascinated by the jewellery industry, where both her father and grandfather were established jewellers. Teaming up with her childhood friend Sidney, the two co-founded Kimaï, imbuing their label with the ethical and environmental values suitable for a new generation of conscious jewellery wearers.
How would you describe your work?
We create fine jewelry for the modern woman. Our designs are essential pieces for her daily active life, worn by women who have a strong sense of who they are.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
It’s something that’s part of your heritage. You cherish a piece of jewelry for its beauty and emotional value, one that you pass down to the people you love the most, so they continue to tell a story and evolve.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
Craftsmanship is an innate part of our story. As a small brand, we like to share as much as we can of the creation behind the scenes for each piece of jewellery with our community. We also work with trusted goldsmiths and ateliers in Antwerp.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
There's a lot of personal history involved in our work, as both Sidney and I grew up surrounded by jewellers and diamond trading families. There are also the wider social and environmental histories associated with gold and diamond mining. So really, it's these histories that have inspired us to create a brand that goes against the grain and provides something for the modern woman that's different to the traditional jewellery brands out there.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
At Kimaï, we believe true luxury is knowing how the pieces you wear are made, by who and in what conditions. Respect for both humans and the environment is at the forefront of everything we do, so it's our mission to provide luxury jewellery that comes from a transparent supply chain. Also, as young businesswomen we would like to be able to pass down that the determination for believing in your dreams, combined with hard work, will really help you to achieve female empowerment.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
Precious is usually a word relevant to describe the monetary value of a stone. But for us, it's really the emotional value behind a piece of jewelry – it's the story you create with it.
Thai jeweller O Thongthai’s pieces are as glittering as her growing list of fans, with the likes of A$AP Rocky and Steve Lacey both having been seen sporting her unisex designs, a combination of chunky metals and glittering precious stones.
How would you describe your work?
Opulent and decadent. My jewellery is something quite personal, sentimental, and precious. Every piece comes with a story—some with a hidden message.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
Heirloom means legacy - something special, sentimental and precious.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
Craftsmanship is everything. It is all about attention to detail. I started making jewellery by hand before recruiting my team, and I have to give it 100% to make sure I get it right, or I have to do it all over again.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
To create something new, I need to understand history. I read books and look back to what has been done before to create my own unique line.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
Work hard and be nice to people. Good things take time, so be patient - the right thing will come to you at the right time.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
Rarity makes things precious to me. Something rare and hard to find. I value life experience, friendship, knowledge. On the other hand, precious in the monetary sense. I like precious metals and precious stones. My jewellery is my precious little thing because it’s a combination of the two.
