History In The Making
Introducing the next generation of fine jewellers fusing concept and craftsmanship to shape new stories for their wearers. Like an heirloom, what have they received from former generations and what will their work pass on to the next? We talk to them about where their work comes from and what it means for the future.
Thai jeweller O Thongthai's pieces are as glittering as her growing list of fans, with the likes of A$AP Rocky and Steve Lacey both having been seen sporting her designs, a combination of chunky metals and glittering precious stones.
How would you describe your work?
Opulent and decadent. My jewellery is something quite personal, sentimental, and precious. Every piece comes with a story—some with a hidden message.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
Heirloom means legacy - something special, sentimental and precious.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
Craftsmanship is everything. It is all about attention to detail. I started making jewellery by hand before recruiting my team, and I have to give it 100% to make sure I get it right, or I have to do it all over again.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
To create something new, I need to understand history. I read books and look back to what has been done before to create my own unique line.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
Work hard and be nice to people. Good things take time, so be patient - the right thing will come to you at the right time.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
Rarity makes things precious to me. Something rare and hard to find. I value life experience, friendship, knowledge. On the other hand, precious in the monetary sense. I like precious metals and precious stones. My jewellery is my precious little thing because it’s a combination of the two.
Established in 2018, Bleue Burnham is a London-based jeweller whose background lies in environmentalism and sustainability - a celebration of the natural world which can be seen through the brand’s luxurious celebration of precious natural materials.
How would you describe your work?
I see my jewellery as a playful exploration of concept, colour and form. I like to play with traditional jewellery and mix shapes and meaning with concepts that relate to a luxurious and playful understanding of health and happiness. This can be broken down into four main categories: connection, nature, laughter and romance. The Browns collection explores humankind’s connection to gardens and the plants and flowers within.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
For me an heirloom is something that is going to be handed down through generations, with the intention of enriching the life of those it is worn by. This is really important to me, which is why I only use solid metals and design jewellery which is made to last multiple lifetimes. The meaning is integrated into the design of the jewellery but the true meaning comes through an individual’s connection with the jewellery and the experiences they share with it. Of course, the longer you have the jewellery the more this connection grows. When you hand jewellery down with stories that relate to significant moments in your life, its value, sentiment and positivity is transferred into their life.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
I make everything and set all my stones by hand in our London atelier. It gives personality to jewellery which is important.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
Our metals are recycled so they almost certainly hold some kind of history. The truth of that history will forever remain unsolved, but the possibilities are endless….
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
Treat nature as ‘God’, be kind, try to understand both sides of every situation, learn to forgive, and remember different doesn’t mean bad.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
Love.
Like ancient relics brought to life in a contemporary context, London-based Joy Bonfield-Colombara's jewellery is inspired by ancient treasures, infusing ancient iconography with modern values to create a new language for jewellery and its wearers.
How would you describe your work?
To be honest I often don’t describe my work – I let it speak for itself. I’m always wearing a piece of my work, and if people ask me what I do, I take it off and let them have a feel. People have described my work as wearable artwork, portable sculpture or a modern mind hijacking a cache of ancient treasure.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
Something of extreme personal value which you leave to family or those you consider family. I think of the family heirlooms which I have inherited. My mother has a pair of earrings that my nonna Gemma had made - she stashes them away and drills me on where she’s hidden them, in case she should pass! She used to say: “If World War Three happens you can use these to get on a boat. In the meantime, wear them on special occasions.”
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
I find it crazy that in the UK ‘craft’ and ‘art’ are put in two separate categories – with often emphasis on ‘craft’ being lesser. The art in which something is made (brought to life) is so important. The Japanese don’t have separate words for art and craft – they are one and the same. William Morris also spoke about the love of his labour, and I feel this too. Thinking with my hands. Pouring the idea and emotion into the object. I think this can be felt in the work. I am a stickler for technique and meticulous to detail.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
I use a combination of true stories, oral histories, modern literature and Mythologies. Many myths are rooted in lived experiences or an analogy for a greater shared experience. When using ‘classical’ narratives or symbols – such as Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty and love – I try to deconstruct our ideas of Western beauty, aesthetics and ideals. Numerous works of mine explore hidden/lesser known histories or narratives of female heroes and protagonists. I also invent my own myths or create hybrids of stories that better suit our current world. Bodies of research can also start in a history and migrate into scientific research. My research of tears started from one of my own lived experiences, and led me to look at the molecular structure of saltwater and how different tears contain different hormones.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
Not to throw away. To value and use things with care. Our attention spans have lessened and we are addicted to constant renewal. The materials I use are recycled, and the stones I used have taken millions of years to form and will continue to be used.
I often think of the song by Erykah Badu, Bag Lady. Don’t carry too much with you. My most precious things I wear are small. They travel close to me on my body and take up little room. I will have them now until I die, and hope that they may bring some joy to the next custodian.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
The intention of which it is was born, made, or given. Something my friends know about me is I can tell what fabric something is as soon as I touch it. I will also always find the old (sometimes ancient) piece in a huge heap at an antiques fair. If you think about it – time is the most precious thing we have. So, something that has survived centuries means it was special enough to do so.
Shola Branson's love of jewellery was born of his interest in museums, which in 2017 became the basis of his eponymous jewellery brand. His one-of-a-kind pieces are handmade from sustainably- sourced precious metals that stand the test of time; treasures to be found in centuries to come.
How would you describe your work?
My work plays on the intersection between antiquity and the contemporary, which allows me to fuse ideas from the two aesthetics to create something that is neither one nor the other. It is bold and playful.
What does the word heirloom mean to you?
A piece that can be cherished, rediscovered and appreciated over generations.
What role does craftsmanship play in your process?
My aim is to sustainably create beautiful pieces that will stand the test of time. I dream of them being discovered centuries from now and looked at with the same intrigue and regard I myself have for the things that inspire me. Each piece is handmade, always in small batches to ensure the highest quality finished product. All the materials are sourced in London and each artefact is hallmarked at the London Assay Office, an ancient guarantee of quality for almost 700 years.
What kind of histories are encompassed in your work?
I draw on imagery and silhouettes from various ancient civilizations and cultures, spanning from Ancient Europe to Africa.
What values would you hope to pass to future generations?
Sustainable beauty.
In your eyes, what makes something precious?
Timeless design paired with high quality materials.
