The AW22 Trend Report

From sharp-shouldered jackets and amped-up intarsia knits to the return of the rebel, discover AW22's most covetable trends and how to wear them now.

Shoulders Above

The suit (and more specially the tailored jacket), came in many guises on the Fall runways - supple leather looks in muted citrus shades at Bianca Saunders, modern takes on the classic tux at Casablanca, strapped arms and cinched waists at GmbH, spliced iterations at Gucci and slick velvet styles at Palm Angels, but the '80s silhouette came out on top. From VETEMENTS to Raf Simons and Jil Sander to Y/Project, it's been decreed that a razor-shoulder is the silhouette of the season.

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Rebel, Rebel

Rip up the fashion rulebook, it's time to celebrate the rebels glorious return to the runway c/o Stefan Cooke, Saint Laurent, AV Vattev, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Namacheko to name a few. Yes, you'll find distressed knits, stomping boots, provocative prints and of course, plenty of plaid and leather, but don't take it too literally: playing the sartorial renegade is more about throwing caution to the wind and wearing things your way this season.

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Go With The Fluro

Introducing the trend guaranteed to perk up both your wardrobe and your mood. It’s time to master go-big-or-go-home dressing, so make ‘bold’ your wardrobe watchword and out-there rainbow shades your new palette of choice. Need some pointers? Take your cue from the runway - fierce fuchsia co-ords at Valentino (who said timeless pieces have to be neutral and understated?), or Versace where tangerine and hot pink mingled to delicious printed effect and Balenciaga where laidback loungewear had a neon yellow overhaul. We defy even the most diehard minimalist to resist the allure of these highlighter hues.

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Denim For Days

It's perennial, of course, but each season offers a subtle difference in denim and everyone's favourite off-duty fabric has approval in some very high-fashion places this season. With new shapes, shades and ways to wear, the Autumn/Winter update is the most modern yet. Seasoned sartorial conservatives (small C) will find sanctuary in Lemaire, and AMI Paris. For those wanting denim given a bit of sartorial spin, Jacquemus, Kenzo, Marine Serre and By Walid are your go-to - think spliced, diced, doubled-up, studded, printed, washed out and wide-legged. But it was at Diesel where this trend really came into its own with the brands creative director, Glenn Martens, making unapologetically in-your-face magic out of the most utilitarian of fabrications using deadstock - look out for the gargantuan floor-sweeping denim ‘fur’ coat and statement-making layered jeans.

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Homespun Knits

How does the humble knit become a look-at-me must-have, rather than a run-of-the-mill staple? When it’s conjured by everyone from Namacheko to BODE and realised in amped-up intarsia motifs running the full spectrum of colourfully carefree. At Off-White fairisle sweaters came stamped varsity-style, while the classic zip-up cardigan got a contemporary-cool makeover at Bottega Veneta. There’s a rebellious streak to Kiko Kostadinov’s longline, loose take on the jumper with slit sides and a nonchalant asymmetric hem. If oversized proportions feel too far out of your comfort zone, look to Craig Green's clever cuts in a more muted palette.

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Let’s Take This Outside

Puffer coats, rainproof trousers, down gilets, thermal knits... Gorpcore shows no sign of abating with the likes of HELIOT EMIL, and Wander, Bottega Veneta and Moncler affirming that functional fashion is here to stay. For the uninitiated, Gorpcore is a term first coined by New York Magazine’s The Cut back in 2017 and refers to functional gear worn in a stylish way - essentially garms fit for scaling Snowdonia worn to the pub or the park regardless of temperature or terrain. Here the fleece becomes the lynchpin of your look (characterised by an endless excess of pockets) and durable, mountain-schlepping footwear become bona fide fashion finds.

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