Inside AV Vattev’s Imaginative AW20 Collection

Rising star Antonio Vattev is throwing a fantasy soirée, celebrating the launch of his new season collection at Browns with Georgia O’Keeffe, Mick Jagger and some other famous faces. The hot topic of conversation? His latest collection.

“I based the collection on an imaginary collaboration in the late ‘70s between two legends - Mick Jagger and Georgia O’Keeffe.”
- Antonio Vattev

“The patterns and textile techniques are strongly imbued with references to O’Keeffe’s famous paintings.”
- Antonio Vattev

“Two forces [Jagger and O’Keeffe], who led and redefined the music and art scenes respectively with their strong vision, distinct personal style and unapologetic point of view, inspired me to create this fusion of strong tailoring and luxurious sportswear,” Antonio tells us, a designer who cites his dream dinner guests as “Basquiat, Rei Kawakubo, A$AP Rocky, Kim Jones, Matthew Williams, Ib Kamara, James Baldwin, Robert Mapplethorpe and Patti Smith.” Bringing his vivid imagination to life, the designer translates the musician’s iconic style and elements of O’Keeffe’s artistry into a collection of coats, trousers, shorts and knitwear that he describes as “classic, youthful and different”.

Whilst London’s streets are where he feels most creative, the Bulgarian-born designer is fascinated by his native culture, history, and craftsmanship. Upcycled tank tops reflect on his heritage, meticulously woven from Halishte - rare, hand-dyed wool from Bulgaria.

AV Vattev O'keeffe Shearling Panel Leather Jacket

“The silhouette and fabrication are reminiscent of Jagger’s personal style, immortalized in photographs on the street and backstage.”
- Antonio Vattev

Shop The Collection | Av Vattev

This effortless fusion of seemingly disparate worlds is Antonio’s forte. “I love the beauty of creating something new when two or more opposite elements are combined,” the innovator explains. A master in the subtle power of pattern cutting, he manipulates and merges seemingly incompatible elements, reflecting on duality and opposition to showcase an aesthetic which “honours the past to create a more interesting future.”

Nevertheless, becoming a fashion designer wasn’t the Central Saint Martins alumnus’ original career path. Joining the legendary university to study graphic design and architecture, Antonio quickly found his calling and transferred to a fashion pathway. Amongst his CSM contemporaries was superstylist Ib Kamara, with whom Vattev collaborated on his AW20 lookbook, seen here.

“I'm fascinated by his creativity and the cultural approach he takes in his work,” the designer says of Kamara, whose groundbreaking vision and celebration of his community can be seen in the stylist’s guest edit of Browns’ ‘A Family Affair’. “I really appreciate his talent, but also him as a human being,” Antonio continues. “For my graduate collection, I received his full support overlooking the whole project from beginning to end, so it was natural to ask him to continue working together on my first collection in the ‘real world’.”

“The classic tailored fabrication - like the checked wool, black organic cotton and dark brown leather - comes from Jagger’s scene and off scene looks.”
- Antonio Vattev

“All the creamy, dusty satin colours are my approach to O'Keeffe's colour palette. It was a nice surprise how organically the colours matched.”
- Antonio Vattev

In the words of its founder, the namesake label “creates a unique world where everyone with strong personalities, personal points of view and style are invited.” One can certainly imagine him thus surrounded by his dream dinner party guest list. The common thread amongst his heroes? “People who have shaped our culture and society through understanding and exploring the times they live in.”

Cabs are en route, the fantasy soirée is coming to an end. The guests of honour say their goodbyes before disappearing into the night, each one clad in AV Vattev AW20.

Words by Sophy Davis Russell