A fashion brand with a sterling raison d’être. As Carcel launches on Browns, founder Veronica d’Souza and Creative Director Louise Van Hauen tell us how it all began and introduce us to some of the prison-based women they work with.

What is Carcel?
 
Veronica: Beautiful garments produced using the world’s finest, sustainable fabrics, created by women in prisons.
 
Louise: The reason for their incarcerations is non-violent, poverty related crimes often committed to make money to provide for their children. Through Carcel, the women learn new skills, find a job and are paid a fair income helping them break out of the poverty spiral. We have set up our own production inside the women's prison in Cusco, Peru and the correctional institution in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

How would you describe its design ethos?
 
Louise: There are two things we always ask ourselves when we start a new style and it’s will it be effortless and cool. Our aim is to create refined modern essentials that are, in all matters of the word, full of quality. We chose to work in the places we did not only because of the numbers of female inmates, but also because of their heritage of fine craftsmanship and local resources of luxurious Alpaca wool and silk.

What’s the importance of the skills that you teach these women?
 
Louise: The machines we use are vital in themselves. We develop on domestic as well as industrial machinery so that when the women get out of prison, they can use what they learnt whilst inside to make money from home and have the opportunity to create a hopefully have a better future for themselves and their families. That really is what we do in a nutshell.

What hurdles have you faced in setting up the business?
 
Veronica: You can’t just write an email to our the team or pick up the phone and ring them. You need to have someone there physically. Our production managers are at the prison everyday so we have constant contact with them along with sending letters to those in the prison. It’s really important to us that we have strong relationships with all the team. Meike, our former German production manager, stayed there for a year and half after only planning to be there for six months. She fell in love with the place, the girls and the job. Carcel is very much built on people and everybody involved has been willing to take a leap of faith with us.
 
What’s your fondest memories from your time there?

Louise: The last trip was really special for me, it was one of the best experiences I’ve had there in Peru. Everyone looked healthier and happier, there was no holding back between any of us and we all felt completely comfortable around each other. Not only that, but it was my birthday whilst we there too and the girls had baked me a cake, which as I bent down to admire they shoved my head into it! We all laughed a lot.

Veronica: When we first arrived, the team cooked us a big welcome lunch using ingredients that they had paid for with the permission of the prison. It was really delicious and it reminded me of how important it is that though you may not have your freedom, the small act of hosting someone matters. It was a really memorable occasion; we ate together, chatted and shared pictures of the Danish Crown princess wearing a Carcelsweater - we were all super excited about that.

What feedback have they given you on their work?

Louise: What strikes me the most is their excitement when I tell them about how much people that buy from the brand enjoy the pieces. There is a person behind the things that we make, each garment produced for Carcel is signed off with the name of its creator on the label. Someone saw Edith’s sign-off on the neckline of a sweater she made and loved it so much that she wrote to her. It means a lot to see how much the hard work put in by the Carcel team is appreciated and that they aren’t forgotten by the rest of society.

Veronica: We don’t want to speak for them but one thing we really experienced with all of these women is that it boosts their self-confidence. They are getting a wage and are able to provide for their families by sending money home, which has a big impact on someone’s sense of self-worth, being afforded that dignity is important.

How did you build the relationships with the women you work with?

Veronica: I already spoke Spanish and Louise taught herself the language whilst we were out there. At first, of course, the girls had no idea if we were going to do what we said we would, but it became such a positive work space once we’d built a mutual trust. Everyone there helps each other and that goes for the team in Thailand too. There is more than just friendliness between us all, there is true closeness. Each team member is a strong, dedicated and inspiring woman. 

What lessons have you all you learnt together?
 
Louise: I feel as if I’m a different person than I was a couple of years ago. Yes, I’ve got a whole new respect for true craftsmanship but the work we do has opened my eyes up to the resilience of women around the world. Those involved with Carcel are so positive and caring and have so much to give, I find it very overwhelming. Working with them gives me a lot of joy and strength, but they are definitely not a pity case, the Carcel team is a force of nature.

What skills have you learnt with Carcel?
I can now knit crew-neck jumpers on a domestic sewing machine. Today I focused on the tagging and packaging process too but my favourite part of the job is quality control. 
 
What's been your favourite moment working with the team?
It has been an unforgettable experience so far. I remember when I met Meike for the first time, she was a such happy person! She taught me everything that I put into practice in my work today.
 
What are your hopes for the future?
First, I want to reclaim my three loves: my children. Thanks to the work I do with Carcel, I am saving to invest in creating my own business, a grocery store. I will work honestly in order to not be separated from my children again.

What skills has Carcel taught you?
I have mastered the Coppa Galga 10 machine and am now a professional knitter of ribbed and polo sleeves, short and long sleeves and ribbed dresses. With every new collection, I become more capable with the processes for Carcel through which I have found a job that enables me to help myself and my family.
 
What's been your favourite moment working with the team?
When Louise and Veronica have visited, those times include some of my fondest memories.
 
What are your hopes for the future?
To carry on my work with the brand until my sentence is complete and continue creating items with which I can take care of myself and my daughter.