A finalist for the LVMH prize and a winner of this year’s ANDAM award, Christelle Kocher’s design star is firmly on the rise. French-born and Central Saint Martins educated, Christelle worked for the luxury giants Armani, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Bottega Veneta and Chanel, honing her couture techniques before launching her own label Koché in 2015. Her sporty, streetwear-inspired vision is beloved of fans and critics alike, reflecting a thoroughly modern vision of what to wear and how to wear it. Here Christelle explains why running a design studio is like running a ship, the influence of music on her work and why a good book can always put your ideas in order.

On her upbringing and how she got her start...
I was born and raised in Strasbourg in the East of France. I come from a family which has absolutely nothing to do with fashion. When I was a young girl, I split my time between school and sports training, as I competed in the junior national handball championships. Eventually, fashion became my passion and I had the privilege to work in amazing houses such as Armani, Dries Van Noten, Chloe, Bottega Veneta and Chanel.

On where she lives now...
I’ve lived in Milan, Antwerp, New York and London. I’m now based in Paris and the Koché studio is located in the neighborhood of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont.

On her road to becoming a designer…
I simply followed my passion; learning the techniques, learning the business.
 
On her aesthetic and the messages within her clothes...
Koché stands at the crossroads of couture know-how, streetwear attitude and youth culture energy. Based on this DNA, the brand has carried strong values of diversity and inclusivity since the very beginning.

Today, the world is changing and so is fashion. People in the street are not dressed like in ad campaign. I design clothes which are not reserved for a certain category of people. I dress people with different body shapes, different genders, different cultures…

On how she begins a design...
I have no routine when it comes to creation, and inspiration can come in so many different ways. As a designer, I like to cut, to sew, to drape myself. I have a strong technical background that I’ve developed since my years at Central Saint Martins. I love to touch and create “for real” with toiles.

On what makes her job exciting...
Creating and sustaining an independent brand in 2019 is a huge challenge. You fight every day. But I love challenges; they motivate and inspire me. I am so lucky to do what I love and to have total freedom to create what I want.

On her daily process in the studio...
A studio is a gigantic ship. So many things to handle and so many decisions to be made. There is no specific process as you always have to change it anyway. You know where you’re going but you’re never quite sure how.

On the most important quality to have as a designer...
Freedom.

On what she always has in her studio...
Matcha tea!
 

On the relationship between music and her clothes...
Before my shows, I listen on loop to the soundtrack that the sound artists are designing for my catwalk show. The collection and the soundtrack evolve in parallel, right until the day before the show! I listen to John Maus, PNL, Velvet Underground, Aamourocean etc...

On what she does to take a break...
I practice sports and I travel, especially to countries where there is a lot of sun and heat!

Her favourite thing about living and working in Paris...
Paris in 2019 is very inspiring, especially the area where I live and have my studio. Paris is a city where there is still a mix of people with different cultures, different backgrounds and different stories.

Her favourite place in the city...
The Parc des Buttes Chaumont: I walk or run there every morning. It is vital for me. The first hours of the day are so calm, so it’s the perfect moment to think and relax before the craziness begins!

On who she admires...
I had the immense privilege of working with Karl Lagerfeld for years. He was the most inspiring and elegant person I knew, and I learned so much with him.

And the best way to cure a creative block…
A good book can put your ideas in order.