THE AW23 TREND REPORT
Finesse your looks and find your sartorial groove for the new season with the Browns guide to AW23’s biggest trends and hero pieces, from oversized and ultra-desirable tailoring to the technicolour separates ready to bring joy to your winter mornings.
NEW NORMCORE
The main aim of designers this season seems to be to make you look as good as possible with minimal effort, an ethos we can firmly get behind. Right now that means taking day-to-day wardrobe staples – straight leg jeans, cosy sweaters, tailored outerwear and more – and making them seriously desirable with pared-back, precision cuts and luxe fabrics. From Bianca Saunders’ slouchy knitted co-ords and AMI Paris’ tactile layering to Jil Sanders’ sporty-meets-streamlined tracksuit and overcoat ensemble, look for throw-on-and-go pieces that will fit seamlessly into your wardrobe and that you’ll want to wear on repeat.
LUXE LEATHER
Is there any trophy piece quite like one crafted from leather? We think not, especially when there are so many AW23 offerings to choose from. The iteration that you choose will be dictated by your personal style: are you most likely to wear Lemaire’s slick brown biker, Y/Project’s shearling aviator or Prada’s wear-everywhere tailored jacket in oak brown suede? Outerwear is the most obvious go-to for such an investment fabric but don’t overlook the styling possibilities of leather separates most notably a relaxed-fit pair of trousers worn with a matching jacket, slouchy knit or grunge-fuelled T-shirt.
POLISHED PUNK
Teenage-angst but with a fashion-forward spin, this season’s grunge-meets-punk inspired looks have more polish than the originals and just as much appeal. Denim rules, from Gucci’s DIY-ish maxi skirt worn with a slouchy striped rugby shirt and penny loafers to Y/Project’s relaxed-fit jeans with their jet black stain effect and Namacheko’s acid wash three piece. Look to the likes of Rick Owens for rips, tears and distressed finishing or, for a slicker take on the trend, reach for the sharp lines and irresistible swagger of Kiko Kostadinov’s tailored black overcoat.
EXCESS ALL AREAS
Imagine that you’re buying your clothes with plenty of room to grow into and you’ll have the measure of the season’s outsized silhouettes. With roomy cuts, slouchy shoulders, extra long sleeves and overblown collars, your favourite labels took their tailoring to extremes for AW23 – and it looks really good. Hero pieces range from Gucci’s ultra-versatile camel coat with its rolled-up sleeves that you’ll want to wear over everything to Bottega Veneta’s relaxed grey suit but as a rule of thumb just remember that, this season, bigger is always better.
JOY DIVISION
Why would you reserve your brightest colours and most vibrant prints for the summer months when they’re going to bring you the most joy deployed in the gloomy days of winter? That seems to have been the attitude behind AW23’s rainbow-bright array of joyful clothes. At Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Robyn Lynch and more that meant taking one acid shade and wearing it head to toe, while the likes of ERL, Bianca Saunders and Kiko Kostadinov ran the gamut of graphic contrasting shapes, psychedelic prints and mis-matched patchwork.
PRACTICAL MAGIC
Fashion’s love affair with the practical details usually reserved for the great outdoors shows no sign of waning, offering up an array of weather-proof fabrics in earthy tones that make total sense as we head into the winter months. In ready-to-wear that translates into directional takes on rip-stop parkas (see RANRA and Robyn Lynch), utilitarian, multi-pocketed trousers (at J.LAL) and, if you’re really committed to the theme, a quilted fishing waistcoat from Moncler Genius x Salehe Bembury. It’s a trend that really comes into its own on the footwear front, though, with everyone from ROA to MM6 Maison Margiela conjuring technical sneakers and sturdy, heavily detailed walking boots.
INVESTMENT ACCESSORIES
Ready to take over your wardrobe without feeling the need to shout about it, this season designers have been working on accessories with the kind of stealth desirability that has to be seen to be believed. These are the pinnacle of elevated staples, luxurious pieces with a hard-working attitude that are crafted to go the distance in your wardrobe. With that in mind it’s worth taking your time to find the perfect fit whether you’re honing in on your dream pair of loafers (see Prada’s three-tone iteration or Santoni’s slick classics) or the ultimate leather bag.
XXL TOTES
Your day-to-day tote bag or holdall is set to be supersized this winter – all the better to hold the hats, gloves and extra layers you’ll need to combat the drop in temperature. Brilliantly, extra-large also means extra stylish and, thanks to the sheer variety on offer, there’s a bag to chime with every personal aesthetic. Look to Bottega Veneta for boardroom-ready luxury, Givenchy for pre-scuffed slouchy leather or the likes of Gucci, Lanvin and Balmain for graphic check and logos.
MODERN MINIMALISM
Proving that simple is always effective, AW23’s take on minimalism has a polished finish and a grown-up attitude. Tailoring is key to making this trend work – you don’t have to wear a suit, although good luck trying to resist the lure of Prada or McQueen’s expert fits, but the simplicity of the look means that each piece needs to be perfectly cut and worn with intention. For your blueprint look to the likes of Ferragamo’s flawless trench, Miu Miu’s twinset and trousers or the crisp lines of Lanvin’s blazer and mix and match for a flawless finish whether you’re heading off to work or out to dinner.
Words: Emma Sells
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