Brand Stan: Dominic Cadogan On Marine Serre
Despite a wardrobe full of designer duds, for Dazed’s Dominic Cadogan, it’s their Marine Serre pieces that reign supreme. We asked the fashion expert to tell us more about their favourite French brand.
Over the past few years, every enviable fashion ‘fit you’ve seen on social media has probably consisted of at least one crescent moon-emblazoned Marine Serre item. Instantly recognisable for their distinctive insignia and body-con aesthetic, the pieces – from turtlenecks and bodysuits to leggings and balaclavas – are the signature creation of the French design wunderkind.
After presenting just a single collection – which she made on evenings and weekends whilst working a full-time day job at Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia – in 2017 the designer became the youngest person ever to take home the LVMH Prize, judged by the likes of Phoebe Philo and the late Karl Lagerfeld, who described Marine as, “1m50, but with a will of steel.”
I bought my first piece shortly after her debut and a second not long after that. They unsurprisingly remain a mainstay in my wardrobe, just waiting to be dusted off for the first post-COVID soirée. For anybody like me, who likes to make maximum impact with minimal effort (hello, Leo rising), Marine’s pieces tick all of the boxes - just the right amount of presence to be noticed, without screaming: “All eyes on me!”
Ariana Grande, Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa, and Kylie (and Stormi) Jenner – no, not the guest list for the most fabulous dinner party you can imagine – rather just a few of the names worshipping alongside myself at the altar of the House of Serre. Beyoncé even chose the designer’s catsuit for her Black Is King film; 48 hours later and searches for the brand had skyrocketed by 426%.
Shortly after the Queen B incident, I interviewed Marine for Dazed, where she explained the backstory of the now-ubiquitous print: “The moon for us is like an icon, an emblem, an image, a representation, a flag, a language, a metaphor, an object of what we believe in: crossing boundaries, hybridity and freedom.”
But what is it exactly that makes Marine’s sleek signatures so appealing? Well, if you can get your hands on one of her coveted pieces (the crescent moon reimagined as a futuristic houndstooth for the Browns collection is the latest to get my heart racing) then you’ll immediately understand. Both functional and fashionable, you could go for a run (take your pick from the abundance of athleisure in the aforementioned capsule) or dress them up for a party. It’s effortlessly chic French dressing done the Serre way, i.e. as if it was the year 3021.
Beyond her ability to make everyone look good, Serre’s strides towards sustainability are light years ahead of brands established long before her label. From the outset, the designer has utilised recycled thread to create her signature pieces. As this has expanded to include denim and leather, so too, have her methods, showcasing her upcycling methods via the brand’s social channels. She credits this mentality to her grandfather, who taught her about the beauty and value of vintage as a collector and secondhand trader.
While we were blissfully unaware of the impending doom that 2020 would bring, a future-gazing Marine sent mask-wearing models down the runway all the way back in February 2019. Perhaps her signature orb-shaped handbags also double up as a Magic 8-Ball… If the past year has taught us anything, it’s that we never truly know what’s around the corner, but if anybody does, I’d put my money on Marine Serre.
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Dominic Cadogan is the Deputy Editor of Dazed Digital.
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