The SS23 Trend Report

Are you – and your wardrobe – ready for the new season? You soon will be. From stealth luxury to goth leather, get set for SS23 with Browns’ guide to the new trends and hottest pieces that dominated catwalks and collections and that you’ll want to wear right now.

Denim Reworked

The hard-working fabric you love, reimagined for the new season. Thanks to the likes of Givenchy, Lanvin and Bianca Saunders you’ll be wanting to wear yours head-to-toe for the coming months, whether that’s courtesy of distressed denim and sleeveless jackets, retro acid washes (worn with a crisp white shirt and tie at JUNTAE KIM) or clean, tailored pieces. Marine Serre even embraced the denim boiler suit although you could take styling notes from the Prada runway and fake it by tucking your jacket neatly into your jeans. And take note: the best jeans came with added extras at Jacquemus, Who Decides War, Feng Chen Wang and more, from fringing and slashed knees to paisley prints and XXL silhouettes.

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Berghain Ready

Part apocalypse-ready, part grown-up goth headed for Berghain, designers fully embraced their dark side this season. Black ruled, either layered up in a carefully considered mix of contrasting textures - see Rick Owens where a sheer mesh jacket offset wide-legged leather combat trousers – or sleek and head to toe like 1017 Alyx 9SM’s zip-up top and trouser combo. Trousers are this trend’s linchpin, from dirty denim to floor-grazing, zip-detailed leather pants, all rounded out with clompy boots and skinny vests, slouchy tops or outsized leather jackets depending on your sartorial fetish.

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Come Out And Play

Who said getting dressed can’t be fun? Embracing their playful side and riffing on youth-fuelled references, designers from JW Anderson to ERL embraced jolly prints and nostalgic silhouettes this season. There was a throwback 90s feel to the oversized and slouchy sweaters - all the better for you to grow into – and the checked cotton trousers and colourful details were everywhere, from patches at Bethany Williams and embroidery at STORY mfg. to the cosy knitted jumper with its ponies and sheep from Andersson Bell.

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The New Luxury

The stealth hits of SS23 were the pieces that were simple but not boring, elevated not ordinary. These are clothes with clean lines, a perfect fit and the ability to slip effortlessly into your wardrobe, no questions asked. Nailing the look were Lemaire, Jil Sander and Bianca Saunders, whose easy tailoring had an irresistible air of quiet cool and all the makings of modern classics. Meanwhile everyone from Jacquemus and The Frankie Shop to Marine Serre and Studio Nicholson offered up flawless takes on wardrobe staples: the perfect shirt, tailored trousers or sweater vest. Choose your favourite and build, one piece at a time.

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Acid Trip

The antithesis of understatement, this trend is all about dressing with joyful abandon in clothes that are guaranteed to increase your dopamine levels. Colour! Print! Pattern! From ERL and Ahluwalia to Dries Van Noten and Bianca Saunders, every look was a sensory overload, layered, mixed, and matched without restraint or any worry about whether the result might be a bit too much. Rest assured: it isn’t. So, look for boldly printed shirts from the likes of AMBUSH and Casablanca, trousers in rainbow brights and tie-dye prints from Heron Preston and Marcelo Burlon and a vibrant array of tops and t-shirts.

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Let’s Get Technical

This season the runways were awash with performance fabrics as designers across the board took practical shapes and functional details and gave them high fashion appeal. At Craig Green that meant utility pieces dreamed up in beautiful shades while RANRA offered up sporty separates in soft, naturally dyed tones and at Ferragamo, where Maximillian Davis made his debut, rip-stop parkas and track came in pristine white from hooded head to trainer-clad toe.

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Words Emma Sells
Designs by Axel Swan Maldini