The Next Generation Is Here...Part Two

Ever since Browns began, we’ve been at the forefront of bringing new brands into the spotlight. This year we turned this up a notch with new brands coming in thick and fast and with no signs of stopping any time soon. Say hello to Telfar, Martine Rose, Situationist, i-am-chen and Ambush, here to become a permanent fixture in your wardrobe this season and we can’t stop talking about them.

One step ahead of the pack, these young brands are at the forefront of style, culture and innovation.

Established in 2005 in New York City by a then 15-year-old Telfar Clemens, Telfar has made waves in the industry for his inclusive, gender-fluid clothing. On a mission to democratise fashion, Telfar has created non-binary collections that allow the wearer to make a choice without being pushed into a select category. The Liberian/American designer describes his collection of hoodies, jeans, jackets and tees as “horizontal, democratic and universal”, painting a picture of a youthful idealistic future.

Martine Rose has been a menswear fixture at Browns for eight years and we are super pumped to bring her contemporary, gender blender style to womenswear for AW18. Starting off as a shirting brand, Martine started her namesake label in 2007 and was one of the first to start experimenting with menswear. Martine often uses her London upbringing as inspiration for her designs, using different communities of cultural significance to influence her aesthetic. London is a melting pot of cultures and traditions and each corner of our capital city is echoed in Martine’s pieces. Currently acting as a consultant for Balenciaga menswear, it is clear that Martine’s anti-establishment apparel is a dominant force on the London fashion scene.

Hailed as a leading region for Next Gen, Tbilisi is slowly earning itself Antwerp level status with the exciting new designers that it is producing. From the land that brought us Demna Gvasalia, Georgia is fast becoming the fashion capital to watch, producing fresh talent with a unique utilitarian style. Influenced by its national identity, Soviet past and traditional tailoring, Situationist takes the boyish silhouette and lends it to a powerful and feminine presentation. Created by Irakli Rusadze, the collection for AW18 has an 80s “Working Girl” vibe with a mix of structured jackets, trench coats and puffed sleeve dresses.

Based in Hong Kong, designer Zhi Chen uses technology and bold visuals to create her unique fabrics. Graduating from London College of Fashion last year, Chen’s fashion journey started as an engineering student in China before leaving to study fashion at Parson’s, New York and eventually completing her studies on UK soil. Seeing herself as more of a technician than designer, Chen writes knitwear patterns within coded computer programs to create her colourful knits. Inspired by the attitudes of David Hockney and Alexander Calder, her colour palette is reminiscent of Andre Derain paintings from the fauvism movement, in a range of bold blues, oranges and yellows. i-am-chen’s range of bright jumpers, dresses and cardigans are sure to add a slice of sunshine to your mostly black AW18 attire.

Enter Japan’s power couple Verbal and Yoon. Founded in 2008, AMBUSH started its design journey as an experimental fine jewellery line before eventually developing into a unisex clothing label. Created by a graphic designer and hip-hop artist, AMBUSH is effortlessly cool. Inspired by the street-style of Tokyo, the pieces are a mix of sportswear and clever tailoring. Jewellery is still very much a part of AMBUSH’s identity with Yoon recently being appointed as Kim Jones’ jewellery lead at Dior Homme. The jeans are baggy, the tops are tight and the knitwear is oversized, it is everything you could possibly want this season.

Words by Alexandra Oliver