London Fashion Week Men's Report SS20
Welcome to the FROW…
So what if your invite to the SS20 shows got lost in the post? We’re keeping you in the know and taking you on the road with our menswear buyers Dean, Lee, Thom, Enrico and Joe, along with photographer Adam Katz Sinding (@aks), as they discover what’s in store for menswear in SS20. So buckle up! It’s going to be an exciting ride.
“LFWM is a must-attend event in terms of support for our home-grown talent. Because of our rich history in being a launch platform for emerging brands it’s important for us to continue that legacy. It’s always nice to start at home before we go on the road to see what the world has to offer.” - Thom Scherdel, menswear buyer."
First day forecast: rain, cloud and Kiko Kostadinov. Gloomy weather didn’t dim day one’s shine as the team headed to the decadent ballroom of Plaisterers’ Hall. Paying homage to historical British equestrian uniforms, Kostadinov sent a sport-inspired collection with his own avant-garde twist down the catwalk. Key pieces to watch out for include graphic deconstructed tunics, checked hacking jackets, structural jockey-style caps and psychedelic riding boots.
The sun made a rare appearance for Edward Crutchley and his representation of 80s old-school glamour imbued with a modern edge. Opera coats, slouchy tailoring, oversized shoulders, lush brocades and (lots of) bows caught our team’s eyes. This rising star is one to watch and he’s already got our attention.
Liam Hodges shone a spotlight on today’s social media-obsessed world. Fusing inspiration from Aldous Huxley and the film ‘EXistenZ’, the collection holds anxiety-fuelled slogans (think ‘Meltdown’ and ‘The Future Keeps Coming’) and utilitarian cargo pants, alongside intentionally clashing, hand-painted chunky cardigans and oversized sweaters.
11AM sharp: Alexander McQueen for breakfast. One of Britain’s best exports meticulously tailored an ode to Englishness for SS20, and a major throwback to the brand’s 90s era. Delicate embroidery and fuchsia mohair gave suits a textural update; exploding floral designs embody memories of Burton and McQueen’s adventures in Japan; and the half-kilted jackets are a nod to Lee McQueen himself. This collection takes the term ‘suited and booted’ to a whole new level of cool.
The day ended with Martine Rose who presented re-imaginations of infamous 80s subcultures and her own opinions on the current social-political climate on an east London rooftop for the all the world to see. Add the reversible fleece emblazoned with ‘Promising Britain’, oversize-shouldered leather bikers and retro tracksuits to your wish list.
Fatigue kicked in on the last day but the calibre of brands (and coffee) was high. BFC’s NEWGEN recipient A-COLD-WALL* presented ‘A Material Study for Social Architecture’, in a minimal industrial palette which made a mighty impact. Fabrics were draped, pleated or bunched into technical, panel-cut pieces accented with the brand’s signature cord, and paired with refined tailoring. As per usual, outerwear took centre stage on Samuel Ross’ catwalk.
The team then headed east for Paria /FARZANEH, one of BFC’s NEWGEN and menswear buyer Thom Scherdel’s favourites. “The unique nature of her collections is stunning,” he explains. “She simultaneously innovates and remains constantly true to herself, while touching on the issues we face in our modern world and the conflict she has with herself about where she belongs within it.” Streetwear of the future, tailored to perfection and showcasing elevated patchwork detailing: check. Creepy masks that scared the sh*t out of everyone: check.
Last, but by no means least, came Bethany Williams. A member of BFC’s NEWGEN who curated her very own greenhouse within Lambeth’s lush Garden Museum. Models braved the rain in oversized silhouettes, deconstructed knitwear and waterproof jumpsuits with asymmetrical hemlines and painterly splash prints, which brightened the gloomy day. We’re excited about the future of NEWGEN, especially what’s coming next for this eco-warrior.
Next stop: Warmer climes!
Date: 20th June 2019
Category: Designer Focus