The A-Z Of Women's Fashion Month A/W20
A is for…
Aaand we’re back! Following on from our definitive guide to the menswear shows, we’re bringing you the Browns roundup of the latest Autumn/ Winter 20 season.
B is for…
Behind the scenes at Gucci, where creative director Alessandro Michele continued his tradition of dreaming up dramatic show spectacles, this season turning the usual formula quite literally, inside out. Set inside a revolving circular chamber, guests were treated to a peek into the backstage area of the show, replete with rails of clothing and attendants dressing the models.
C is for…
Contemporary corporate, with hot young Parisian label Coperni offering up another collection of slick tailored pieces with a futuristic mod edge, flouting assumptions that Millenial workwear is all about freelancers in pajamas.
D is for…
Daniel Lee, you’ve done it again. In what could arguably be called his strongest collection yet, the Bottega Veneta creative director and four time winner at the recent British Fashion Awards delivered a collection that mixed his tried and tested house codes (drool-worthy accessories, languid knitwear, square sequin textures and sleek, longline tailoring) with extra fringing and futuristic neon details.
E is for…
Eckhaus Latta, the New York label continuing to push the boundaries of the NYFW mould. As we’ve come to expect, the show was a who’s who of Downtown New York, with a cast of designer Mike and Zoe’s friends and muses walking the runway in acid wash denim, sheer separates and the label’s signature patterned knits. This season the focus was on craft and durability, which, alongside the second-hand shoes worn by the models, added to an overarching theme of sustainability.
F is for…
Family affair, with sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid being joined by their mother Yolanda on the catwalk at Virgil Abloh’s Off-White show.
G is for…
Green with envy, the colour of the season as seen in a variety of shades across all four fashion capitals. Audiences helped themselves to a serve of key lime pie at Bottega Veneta, whilst minty accents at Kwaidan Editions kept everyone fresh and muted moss at Rejina Pyo offered a wearable take on the trend. Dries Van Noten even copied Billie Eilish’s signature roots, dyeing models’ hair the singer’s trademark radioactive hu
H is for…
Hoes at the shows, as seen at Collina Strada’s gardening-themed New York show, where a diverse array of models carried bejewelled gardening tools as a nod to the designer’s ongoing commitment to sustainability practices and protecting the planet. Over in Paris, Stella McCartney showed an equally green thumbed sensibility, employing large fluffy mascots at her show who gifted guests with trees to carbon offset the show.
I is for…
I am woman, hear me roar, with Cate Holstein encouraging the Khaite woman to take a walk on the wild side next season.
J is for…
Jill Kortleve, the breakout curve model of fashion month. Walking for the likes of Chanel, Molly Goddard, Fendi, Valentino and Alexander McQueen, Jill’s presence on the runway marked another positive step for body diversity in fashion.
K is for…
Kink, with the show season proving that fashion’s ongoing preoccupation with all things fetish is far from over, with many designers showing collections bearing leather straps and bondage hardware details. Harnesses in particular were seen across a variety of collections, from Gucci to Alexander McQueen to Christopher Kane, whilst Y-project treated us to suggestive deep V details and cheeky Y2K-style exposed thong straps.
L is for…
Lolita chic, as seen at Miu Miu, where the label’s girlish aesthetic was delivered via jewelled headpieces, glitzy details, peter pan collars and sweeping cat eye make-up.
M is for…
Molly’s Man, with British favourite Molly Goddard allowing a touch of menswear to infiltrate her typically frothy and feminine offering. Inspired by her boyfriend Tom, Goddard’s menswear proved the perfect foil for another standout collection of the designer’s playful signatures.
N is for…
Noir, most notably at Valentino and Balenciaga, both of whom showed collections of predominantly black clothing. For Balenciaga, the ominous colour palette extended to the show setting, a dark chamber filled with water, with the entire front row appearing half submerged in the inky pool. Models splashed through the water as they walked, keeping time with a heavy bass soundtrack, illuminated from an LED screen overhead which depicted a swirling, stormy sky.
O is for…
On call. Despite their apocalyptic setting, Balenciaga’s models were well equipped for disaster, carrying doctor-style bags, phones in hand and airpods in their ears, ready to respond to an emergency call. Elsewhere at Ashley Williams, her gang also appeared holding iPhones, no doubt ready to dial the designer and pre-order some of her delectable minidresses.
P is for…
Pump up the volume, the message at London Fashion Week, where billowing silhouettes and voluminous shapes took to the stage at Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard, Roksanda, Halpern and Richard Quinn.
Q is for…
Quiet luxury, as seen at Jil Sander where Luke and Lucy Meier’s flawless collection of Sander signatures offered a welcome palette cleanser (much like their clothes do for our wardrobes). Preferring the term “purity” over “minimalism”, the collection was held in Milan’s newly constructed museum of industrial design, a perfect metaphor for the couple’s vision; embracing the Jil Sander history whilst continually pushing its aesthetic somewhere new.
R is for…
Raf Simons, who made headlines during fashion week after it was announced that the designer would be joining Miuccia Prada as co-creative director at the legendary Italian house.
S is for…
Sunday Service, courtesy of Kanye West, who brought his now-famous Sunday Service celebrations to Paris Fashion Week. As if that wasn’t enough, West also held a surprise show for his label Yeezy, with wife Kim Kardashian seated in the audience to get a good view of the couple’s six-year-old daughter North performing at the show. A chip off the old block, eh...
T is for…
The thigh’s the limit, with thigh high stocking boots being seen at the likes of Victoria Beckham, Alexander McQueen, Richard Quinn and Bottega Veneta.
U is for…
Uni days, but make it fashion, more specifically, make it Riccardo Tisci’s uni days. Reflecting on his time spent studying in London, the Italian head of Burberry delivered a collection inspired by his early years at Central Saint Martins.
V is for…
Very, very Versace. Following on from Jennifer Lopez’ surprise turn on the catwalk, Donatella proved once again that the Versace woman is the foxiest of them all. Staying true to the brand’s DNA, the designer delivered a collection that oozed the house’s signature sex appeal, complete with micro-minidresses in glittering metallics worn by the likes of Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid.
W is for…
Wipe clean, with latex continuing its reign as the texture du jour at the likes of Saint Laurent, Balmain and Richard Quinn. Spillages next season? Not a problem.
X is for…
X-ray vision, c/o sci-fi shades at Prada and goggle-style sunglasses at Bottega Veneta and Burberry. Perhaps it’s these that allow Miuccia Prada, Daniel Lee and Riccardo Tisci their unique insight into knowing exactly what we’ll want next season...
Y is for…
Yes, there were supermodels aplenty. Representing the new generation of supers were the likes of Bella and Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, Kendall Jenner, Adut Akech, Paloma Elsesser and Mona Tougaard, whilst longstanding fashion favourites Irina Shayk, Frankie Rayder, Kirsty Hume, Malgosia Bela and Amber Valetta popped up on runways across the capitals, proving that once a super, always a super.
Z is for…
Zzzz, fashion month is over, and we’re exhausted. See you next season!
Words by Georgia Graham