Intuitive with an effortless edge, VETEMENTS are ripping up the fashion rulebook. Think spliced and diced sweats, deconstructed denim, seriously oversize knits and textured shirts. We talk to Demna Gvasalia, the designer heading up Paris' coolest new label.
HOW DID VETEMENTS BEGIN?
It was an idea born between myself and a couple of friends to make clothes for our friends and cool girls we like. It started in my bedroom.
WHAT MOTIVATED YOU AND THE OTHER MEMBERS TO LAUNCH UNDER ANONYMITY?
Naturally we are introverts and don’t deal easily with being in the public eye or being photographed, and, from the beginning Vetements has stood for its product and we chose for the product to speak for itself first.
HAVE THE OTHER MEMBERS OF VETEMENTS REMAINED ANONYMOUS INTENTIONALLY?
Yes. It’s not about the people behind [the brand], but the result of our collective work.
HOW DO YOU ALL WORK TOGETHER AS A COLLECTIVE?
We brainstorm and discuss the clothes, attitudes and concepts that we like and see how we can put them into the aesthetic frame of Vetements. There is a lot of exchange within the design as well as the sales team. The result is an edited version of our joint working process.
IS IT TRUE THAT SOME DESIGNERS ROTATE IN AND OUT OF THE COLLECTIVE?
At the moment we are trying to establish a more stable, permanent base of the collective.
UNLIKE MOST DESIGNERS, VETEMENTS ISN'T ABOUT CREATING A BRAND-NEW CONCEPT OR THEME EACH SEASON...
We follow our instinct in what we like at that very moment and neglect the trend influences. Every season is about the wardrobe of a person; we just change it according to the current mood every six months.
WHEN MOST PEOPLE THINK OF PARISIAN FASHION THEY THINK ‘CHIC’ AND ‘ELEGANT’, YOU’RE REFLECTING SOMETHING DIFFERENT… WHAT IS YOUR PARIS?
It is the things we see around us; people on the streets, at parties, in supermarkets. Unpolished, real Paris, often the tough and negligent is what inspires us most here. And of course the internet.
TELL US ABOUT THIS SEASON. WHAT WERE SOME OF YOUR STARTING POINTS AND REFERENCES FOR AW15?
It was the attitude, a certain coolness that is constructed into the garment. For the rest it is again the Vetements wardrobe.
WHO HAVE BEEN YOUR BIGGEST DESIGN INFLUENCES?
People we work with, our friends who have their own style and opinion, girls who walk our shows.
WHAT KIND OF WOMAN BUYS YOUR CLOTHES?
The one who does not require trends to direct her in what she wears. She is the ultimate designer, we just propose the components of her optional look. She is a strong individual.
WHO WOULD YOU LOVE TO SEE WEARING YOUR PIECES?
People who love clothes.
WHAT EXCITES YOU MOST ABOUT BEING INVOLVED IN FASHION TODAY?
The challenge of doing things differently, the transitional zeitgeist of this moment and the search for the endless possibilities of making clothes that people want to wear...
HOW HAVE YOU SEEN PARIS' FASHION LANDSCAPE CHANGE RECENTLY?
There are more young people on its landscape and that feel refreshing and motivating.
WHAT IS YOUR ULTIMATE GOAL?
To keep loving what we do and do things that people love to wear.
WHAT ARE THE THINGS YOU LOVE TO DO IN PARIS?
Walking, people watching, drinking white wine and smoking cigarettes. And many more.
DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE PARIS HANGOUT? A FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOOD?
Favorite hangout is our new studio in the 10th arrondissement. Favorite neighborhoods are around train stations and north of Paris.