THE INTERVIEW: DRIES VAN NOTEN

 
 
 
  • You presented your fall winter collection, which is in store now on the eve of your exhibition opening; did one influence the other?


    Working on the exhibition, going into the archives was a chance to see what I did in the past... and to see it with different eyes. Many of my team had diferent experiences, some weren’t even born when I started so their reaction was fascinating...There were so many fabrics and so many archives, so there was a lot extra to feed what we were working on, there were so many extra elements to appreciate.



    Where do you usually like to start a collection from?


    The art of it. The smells, the taste, the city, the idea, the focus... I start with fabrics, definitely the fabrics, colour and texture, how the fabrics combine, like painting, painter’s oil, the luxury of colours and how they mix, you have to start with good ingredients, good fabrics. This season I was focused on making clothes.

    How do you find your inspiration/ideas?


    I like to find a story - a girl travels around the world, a love of nature, a combination of precious gems with stones and shells found on beach... I always like to think who and how could they wear everything from the clothes, the shoes, the ethic, the mood. I like to see the whole photo.


    What colours inspire you?


    Gold is an interesting material as it represents a contradiction of its own meaning - it is symbolic of wealth and power yet its also cheap bling bling, I like that contrast. I like how its material and symbol can vary how you use it, and how you think about it. Red is another colour that’s so symbolic with so many messages from the rose to stop, love to danger, I love playing with this.


    What was the main direction for the spring summer 2015 collection, that’s just shown on the catwalk?


    I let the fabrics dictate more than normal, I wanted to not restrict the fits, the bias, the fall, the idea was being free.

    What ideas did you play with for both A/W 14 and S/S 15?


    More and more we are world travelers, so for spring summer I thought high tech with back packs, light beauty, painterly techniques, Millais’s Ophelia and palette with the girls laying down at the end of the show

    ... while in fall winter season it was Bridget Riley and these optical motifs like in rave culture... the colours, the embellishment, it was a fun moment....


    What is your office like? Where do you sit in the studio?


    I am very hands on, I am there in middle, my desk is in middle of office with everyone, I talk with everyone, I like to be in the centre.


    When did you first meet Mrs. Burstein and Browns?


    A long, long time ago. Mrs. B is one of the Three Great Graces of fashion - along with Christina Ong, Joyce Ma.



    The Dries van Noten Exhibition has been extended until November 2nd at the Art Decoratifs in Paris. Les Arts Décoratifs 107, rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris.

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    As the Dries Van Noten exhibiton - “Inspirations” - continues to receive rave reviews, running now until November 2nd, Camilla Morton talks exclusively to the designer himself about fashion, inspiration, art and Browns.

    THE INTERVIEW:

    DRIES VAN NOTEN

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